So walk, I did, heading first to Mykonos Town. There are two routes travellers can take to get from Hotel Tagoo to the center of town. The fastest and most direct (about 15 minutes) is along a road that passes the bottom level of the hotel (on some island maps, it is the street marked “Kouka J” that leads north from the Remezzo area of Mykonos Town).

The other option, which I call the “scenic route,” is indirect and takes at least twice as long. It starts with a short walk up the paved road that passes the top level of Hotel Tagoo. Just before the road reaches the highway to Tourlos, you turn right onto a dirt and stone footpath that meanders down the hillside. The trail eventually emerges onto Agios Ioannou street — the busy ring road that diverts vehicular traffic around the town center — just a short uphill walk up from the Ano Mera & Elia beach bus stops and the Mykonos Archaeological Museum.

I enjoy walking the “scenic route” from time to time because there’s no vehicular traffic and barely any other pedestrians, either. I usually see more goats than people. And the scenery is interesting every step of the way, particularly on a clear sunny day when you get good views of Tinos and Syros. Despite today’s clouds, I opted for the “scenic route.”


 Mykonos dog

 This big dog keeps a close watch outside a house just up the road from Hotel Tagoo



Mykonos goat

A big goat stands sentry on the hillside high above Mykonos Town.



Mykonos goats

A young goat pokes its head out of a hole to check out the view



Mykonos road

Looking along the road that leads from the Tourlos highway to Hotel Tagoo, private homes and other hotels in the Tagoo district. Like most roads on Mykonos, this one is lined on both sides with stone walls — the Greek island version of fences.



A telephoto view of the San Antonio Summerland Hotel. It’s situated on a hillside above the Tourlos highway north of Mykonos Town.



Costa Mediterranea

From my hilltop vantage point, I can see the Costa Mediterranea approaching Mykonos. The cruise ship has 1,057 cabins and can accommodate 2,680 passengers and 902 crew. I wondered if its presence in port for the day would bring any crowds to Mykonos Town.



Mykonos church

The dirt and stone trail ends halfway down the hill, where it emerges onto a road near this red-domed church high above the Mykonos Town harbourfront. The large white building at bottom right is the Mykonos Archaeological Museum.



Mykonos Town harbour

Another view of the Mykonos Town harbour



Mykonos Harbour view

Two of the Delos ferry boats can be seen moored at the long quay that juts into Mykonos harbour (left), while a charter yacht and a tour boat can be seen berthed at the Old Port (right).



Mykonos Town

A telephoto view of the Remezzo area on the north side of Mykonos Town. The town center is a pedestrian zone, and only taxis, police cars and local service vehicles are allowed to drive into the center through the white entrance gates visible at center left. This is the route taxis take to reach Manto Square (also known as Taxi Square) near the waterfront. The large white building at upper left is the Remezzo nightclub.



steps on a path above Mykonos Town

Near the red-domed church, the path continues down some well-worn old steps that are almost overgrown with flowering bushes



geraniums in Mykonos

The footpath passes a narrow lane where two large geraniums burst with red blooms



Pension Stelios Mykonos Town

A sign on the path points the way to Pension Stelios, which has simple but spotless double, triple and quadruple room accommodations



Pension stelios Mykonos

Pension Stelios and other nearby studio and room accommodations are about 50 steep, thigh-burning steps above Agios Ioannou Street



Favourite church: Once down the hill, I made my way over to the Remezzo-area entrance to the town center, and followed stone-paved Polikandrioti street to Manto (Taxi) Square, passing the Leto Hotel and Hondos Center on my left and little Agia Anna beach on my right. From Taxi Square I walked along Akti Kambani, where shops and tavernas with wide awning-sheltered terraces face a sandy shore along the Mykonos Town harbour.  I passed the terra cotta-roofed Town Hall and the Delos tour boat jetty and strode along the seafront until I reached Panagia Paraportiani, the Mykonos landmark which is one of my favourite churches in Greece.

The most-photographed church on the island, it actually consists of five separate chapels built together — four on ground level (Agios Sozontas, Agii Anargyri, Agia Anastasia, and Agios Efstathios), topped by Paraportiani on the second floor, with its distinctive white domed roof and rounded-top belltower. (There are two more chapels only steps away on the seafront, but I don’t know their names.) Construction of Paraportiani apparently started in the early 1400s, but didn’t finish until sometime in the 1600s. I’ve never been inside any of the chapels; the doors have always been locked tight. This time, however, one of the doors was open, and I thought I might finally get a chance to enter. But just as I approached, a cleaning woman stepped out with a mop and pail, and quickly locked up behind her. Yet again, no chance to peek inside!

From there, I wandered down Ag. Anargiron, the cobblestone lane beside Kastro Bar. Lined with souvenir shops, jewellery stores and clothing boutiques, along with Katerina’s Bar and the ever-popular Montparnasse Piano Bar, this narrow alley twists and turns behind the rustic seaside buildings of Little Venice that appear on scores of Mykonos postcards. Ag. Anargiron street eventually intersects with another lane, on the right-hand side, which is the entrance to Veranda Club-Café and the other sunset-view seaside cocktail lounges of Little Venice, including Galleraki, Bar del Mar, Scarpa, Semeli, and Caprice Bar. 


Mykonos Folklore Museum

This rustic building overlooking the Mykonos Town seafront is home to the Mykonos Folklore Museum. I couldn’t drop in any of the mornings or afternoons I passed by during the week because it’s open to the public only for a few hours each evening.



Mykonos Folklore Museum

The museum entrance is on this side of the building



Paraportiani Church Mykonos

Approaching Paraportiani Church



Paraportiani Church

History books say that construction of the 5-chapel church commenced around 1425, but didn’t finish for nearly 200 years



Paraportiani Church Mykonos

A cleaning lady locks the door to one of the five chapels at Paraportiani Church



Paraportiani Church Mykonos

The church was painted with a fresh coat of whitewash during the time I was on Mykonos



Mykonos church

A chapel on the seaside just steps away from Paraportiani Church



Mykonos windmills

Looking toward the famous Mykonos windmills from the rocky seashore below the chapel next to Paraportiani Church



Mykonos windmills

Another view of four of the five windmills and the Sea Satin Market restaurant on the seaside below. If the restaurant looks a little familiar, that’s because Sea Satin is where the final scene in the Matt Damon action movie The Bourne Identity was filmed.



 Paraportiani Church

If you follow the cobblestone path between two of the Paraportiani churches (left) and a separate chapel above the seaside (right), you’ll enter a narrow shop-lined lane that leads to the scenic Little Venice district of Mykonos Town.



Paraportiani Taverna Mykonos

Instead of taking Ag. Anargiron street I turned left and walked to Paraportiani Square, passing Paraportiani Taverna on the way. I’ve eaten here numerous times in the past, but not this trip. Other guests at Hotel Tagoo told me they had enjoyed the food and preferred Paraportiani Taverna over its more famous and popular restaurant competitor on the other side of the square, Niko’s Taverna.



 Mykonos pelicans

The famous Mykonos pelicans can often be spotted in or near Paraportiani Square, and today was no exception. Two were trying to catch a snooze on steps behind the Paraportiani Taverna, while several curious tourists quietly watched and took pictures.



Mykonos pelicans

Two of the famous Mykonos pelicans take a rest in a quiet section of Paraportiani Square



Rain delay: From Paraportiani Square, I walked through the maze of streets behind Little Venice. I gradually worked my way toward the Fabrika bus depot on the south side of town, and saw a familiar sight: Marco Polo Taverna. You can’t miss the restaurant if you’re in the Lakka area — it has about a dozen tables in two cobblestone lanes adjacent to the taverna, each sporting eye-catching red checkered tablecloths. With red bougainvillea blooms providing a colour-coordinated canopy above some of the outdoor seating, Marco Polo taverna attracts plenty of attention from passersby — and especially from photographers. 

I have seen Marco Polo many times on each of our visits to Mykonos, but I have never eaten there. I walked over to take a look at the menu posted out front, and a very pleasant man (possibly Michalis Kontizas, the owner) came out to tell me about the lunch specials on offer. One — the Greek salad, calamari and wine for €13 — piqued my interest and tastebuds. I wasn’t yet ready to have lunch, though, so I asked how long the calamari special was being offered. When he said all afternoon, I promised to come back after I walked around some more. (I really meant it; I was finally going to have a meal at Marco Polo.)

So off I went, heading past the buses at Fabrika and up the road that leads to Ornos (and branches off to Platis Gialos). I have travelled this way numerous times before, but always on a bus or in a taxi. This was my chance to finally get a longer and closer look at various hotels I had previously glimpsed only briefly from vehicles speeding into town. One — Despotiko Hotel — has a long second-floor balcony that protrudes above the busy road. I recalled riding into Town on the bus and watching as the right side of the vehicle passed mere inches of the balcony; if I had stuck my arm out the window, I probably would have been able to touch it. Other hotels I passed included the Ilio Maris, the Golden Star Hotel, and the Carrop Tree Hotel.  I had planned to walk a lot farther up the road, but it started to rain while I was taking photos outside the Merolayia restaurant next to the Carrop Tree. Walking in the rain didn’t appeal to me, so I headed back into Town and went for lunch at Marco Polo instead, hoping the weather would clear by the time I was finished eating.


Hotel Despotiko Mykonos

Buses pass within mere inches of the second-floor balcony that protrudes above the main road from the west side of the Despotiko Hotel



Hotel Golden Star Mykonos

The Golden Star Hotel boasts a unique landmark — a restored traditional windmill



 Hotel Golden Star Mykonos

A cute red-domed church sits next to the Golden Star Hotel



Hotel Golden Star Mykonos

Front view of the red-domed church at the Golden Star Hotel



Golden Star Hotel Mykonos

Looking toward Mykonos Town from the windmill at the Golden Star Hotel



Golden Star Hotel Mykonos

The entrance to the Golden Star Hotel



Megali Ammos beach Mykonos

A view of Megali Ammos beach from the hillside between the Golden Star Hotel and the Carrop Tree Hotel



Carrop Tree Hotel Mykonos

The street side of the Carrop Tree Hotel. The rear of the hotel has terrific sunset views



 Carrop Tree Hotel Mykonos

Decorative designs and dovecoats on a building at the Carrop Tree Hotel



Carrop Tree Hotel Mykonos

A blue-domed chapel beside the Carrop Tree Hotel



Merolayia restaurant Mykonos

Street view of the Merolayia restaurant next to the Carrop Tree Hotel



Merolayia restaurant Mykonos

The Merolayia restaurant has an outdoor terrace with excellent views of Megali Ammos beach, Korfos Bay and the sunset



Merolayia restaurant Mykonos

The road that passes the Golden Star and Carrop Tree Hotels. There are no sidewalks, so vehicles pass within mere inches of pedestrians. It’s about a 10-minute walk to the Fabrika bus depot from here.




Lunch break: Light rain sprinkled during my walk back into the town center, but the rain stopped falling by the time I reached the Fabrika bus station. When I got to Marco Polo Taverna, I sat at a table under an awning at the front of the restaurant so I wouldn’t get wet even if it started drizzling again (it did, but only momentarily).  The friendly fellow who had told me about the lunch specials was nowhere to be seen, and the waiter who brought me a menu insisted that the only lunch special was souvlaki, not calamari. He told me there were plenty of other items to choose from, and looked annoyed when I said I didn’t want to order off the menu. I told him the only reason I had come to the restaurant was to order the calamari which another employee had told me would be available all afternoon. He reluctantly agreed to check with the kitchen and shuffled off, returning a few minutes later to say there had been some kind of “mistake” and I could indeed have calamari.

While waiting for my meal, I chatted with the elderly couple from France that was sitting at the table next to mine. In French, they told me they were frustrated with the strange weather that kept alternating sunny and cloudy days; nevertheless, they still thought Mykonos was beautiful and they loved being on the island. But they were disappointed that they had not yet seen the pelicans they had heard about. I showed them the photos I had taken of the two pelicans at Paraportiani Square about 90 minutes earlier, and gave them directions to the square so they could go see if the big birds were still around.

My lunch was okay, but I have to admit I felt let down. It was the exact same meal combination I had ordered at Fato a mano a week earlier (where the price was €1 cheaper), but it wasn’t as enjoyable or as good quality. The salad and the calamari portions were significantly smaller than what I had received at Fato a mano. The service was incomparable, too — Fato a mano’s friendly, cheery staff had made my meal there much more fun. Heck, they even remembered me and waved or said hello every time I walked past after that, which was at least once a day. I knew that wasn’t going to happen with the Marco Polo staff.


Mykonos cats

Three cats sit in a lane in Mykonos Town



 Marco Polo taverna Mykonos

Red checkered cloths on tables at the front of Marco Polo Taverna



Marco Polo Taverna Mykonos

The taverna has several tables in two lanes near the main restaurant building



Marco Polo Taverna Mykonos

A pelican features prominently in one of the signs for Marco Polo Taverna



Mykonos and Delos book

The cover of Mykonos and Delos at the dawn of the 20th Century, the book I bought myself as a souvenir. Published in 2006 by Michael Toubis S.A. in Athens, it has 200 pages of photos and information about what the islands were like more than 100 years ago.



Mykonos and Delos book

One of the photos in the book, taken by Henry Convert around 1906, shows a row of 10 full and partial windmills near Little Venice. Only five a half windmills remain today.



Souvenir shopping: After lunch I browsed through shops and bought some postcards and a souvenir — a fascinating softcover book called Mykonos and Delos at the dawn of the 20th Century (Lucie Bonato & Haris Yiakoumis; M. Toublis Publications). It’s chalk full of historic information plus dozens of black and white photos of both islands from the early 1900s. Although the rustic seaside buildings of Little Venice look much the same today as they did over 100 years ago, as do those facing the harbourside along Akti Kambani, most of the town looks drastically different. The hillsides surrounding the town once were mainly barren, rocky slopes. Now, they’re built up with whitewashed houses and hotels. Even the famous windmills near Little Venice looked significantly different a century ago. Back then, there was a row of at least 10 windmills leading from the top of the hill right down to the seaside. Now, only five and a half remain (one doesn’t have its roof or sail).

I walked back to the hotel to drop off the book in my room before continuing my walkabout.  I didn’t pass many people along the way, and wondered where all the passengers from the Costa Mediterranea cruise ship had gone. I had expected to see groups of them swarming through Mykonos Town, but the quiet streets belied the fact there was a big cruise ship in port.

My next destination was the New Port at Tourlos. I wanted to get some photos of Matthew Taverna (the pictures I took during our big group dinner there several nights earlier did not turn out well), and I also wanted to undertake a small “fact finding mission” — what is it like to walk from the port all the way into Town? That’s a question I frequently get asked on the TripAdvisor Greece forum, particularly by people whose cruise ships will be calling into the Tourlos port, rather than dropping anchor near the Old Port and tendering passengers ashore right into Mykonos Town. Many of the Tourlos-bound passengers don’t want to pay outrageous cruise ship prices for island tours and excursions, and some don’t even want to pay the approximately €6 it costs to ride a shuttle bus from the port to town. I have walked sections of the 2-kilometer route a few times, but have never taken a stroll directly from the New Port to the town center, so I saw this as a chance to get some photos showing people exactly what they could expect if they choose to hoof it from the ship. Besides, I wanted to know what to expect, too, since some day I might arrive at Mykonos by cruise ship (though that is extremely unlikely unless I get an incredible deal — I don’t advocate visiting the Greek Islands on a cruise).



Matthew Taverna Tourlos

Matthew Taverna at Tourlos. The restaurant is right across the road from the entrance/exit to the New Port where the large ferries and some cruise ships dock.



Matthew Taverna Tourlos

A few nights earlier, our big group from Hotel Tagoo sat at the long table under this tree on the Matthew Taverna terrace



Matthew Taverna Tourlos

The terrace overlooks the new port and marina, and has views to Mykonos Town to the south



Makis Place and Molaraki restaurant Mykonos

Right next to Matthew Taverna are Makis Place, which offers very reasonably-priced studio and room accommodations, and Molaraki restaurant



 road from Tourlos to Mykonos Town

Looking toward Mykonos Town from the Tourlos / Agios Stefanos highway near the New Port entrance. The road is narrow and has no sidewalks, so pedestrians walk only inches away from passing scooters, cars, buses and big trucks. Some people walk along the seashore as far as they can to avoid the traffic.



road from Tourlos to Mykonos Town

A cruise ship shuttle bus approaches on a long straight section of road. It’s carrying passengers back to the Costa Mediterranea cruise ship docked at the New Port.



road to New Port at Tourlos

Looking toward the Tourlos port. Many cruise ship passengers prefer to walk along the sandy stretch of shoreline to avoid the traffic on the main road.



Mykonos New Port marina

Looking toward the marina section of the new port where dozens of sailboats are berthed



road to Tourlos New Port

Two cruise ship passengers walk along the shore while another two remain on the paved road instead of turning off through the break in the stone wall



road to Mykonos Old Port

A group of passengers from the Costa Mediterranea cruise ship rounds the bend on a hill near the outskirts of the Tagoo district of Mykonos



road to Mykonos Old Port

When I passed the group a few minutes later, I asked them if they had walked into Town from the ship, too. One man told me their stroll into Town had taken them about 45 minutes. He looked at his watch and said they had been walking over 20 minutes already, and figured the return hike to the ship would take about 35 minutes in total.



road to Mykonos Old Port

The walk from the New Port to the Old Port isn’t pleasant if the road is busy with vehicular traffic, as is often the case. Having vehicles pass just inches from me is unnerving enough, but what I dislike most is walking along the edge of this particular part of the road …



road to Mykonos Old Port

… since the highway curves along the top of a steep, rocky cliff …



road to Mykonos Old Port

… while the white concrete “guardrails” at the edge are only knee-high …



road to Mykonos Old Port

… with wide gaps that give a scary glimpse of the sheer plunge to the sea below



road to Mykonos Old Port

Looking back toward the Tourlos port, from the bend in the road high above the coast



Cavo Tagoo

Side view of the traditional Cycladic architecture of the Cavo Tagoo luxury hotel



Cavo Tagoo

Looking up at the Cavo Tagoo buildings on the hillside above the road. The hotel offers a variety of exquisite rooms and suites, some with their own private plunge pools.



Cavo Tagoo

Another view of Cavo Tagoo. You can’t see it from here, but on the other side of the stone wall is a fabulous sundeck/lounge area with a gorgeous infinity pool.



Cavo Tagoo Mykonos website photo of the hotel's infinity pool and luxurious sundeck

This photo from the Cavo Tagoo website shows the luxurious lounge, sundeck and infinity pool. Click on the image to view it full size.



Cavo Tagoo

View toward Tourlos from the Cavo Tagoo driveway entrance on the coastal road



new Mykonos Town waterfront marina

After several years of prolonged construction, a new marina and seaside parking area has opened on the Mykonos waterfront. The facility extends all the way from the Old Port at Mykonos Town to the coast below Cavo Tagoo.



new Mykonos Town waterfront marina

The entrance channel to the new marina is just below Cavo Tagoo, and has excellent views of Tourlos and the New Port area



new Mykonos Town waterfront marina

Although the hundreds of new parking spaces may be necessary to cope with demand during peak season (mid July to September), most sit empty in May, and the long seaside facility is a great spot to take a jog without having to worry about traffic



road to Mykonos Old Port

Passengers from the Costa Mediterranea approach the Cavo Tagoo hotel as they walk along the narrow coastal road en route to the cruise ship docked at Tourlos



Kouros Hotel Mykonos

Kouros Hotel is another luxury complex built onto the hillside above the coastal road …



Apanema Resort Mykonos

… as is the Apanema Resort right next door



coast road betweent the Mykonos ports

View of the Costa Mediterranea from the road below the Apanema Resort



road to Mykonos Old Port

I took this photo to show just how narrow the coastal road is between the Mykonos Old Port and the New Port at Tourlos. The compact car had to back up a few meters to let the cruise ship shuttle bus negotiate the tight bend in the road.



Vista Apartments Mykonos

Also on the hillside above the road to the Old Port is the Vista Apartments complex



yacht at Mykonos

A private yacht named A Nadia leaves the Mykonos Old Port for a late afternoon cruise



A Nadia yacht at Mykonos

Passengers on the top deck look out to sea as the yacht leaves the Old Port



Mykonos Old Port

 The 39-meter-long Indiana charter yacht remains moored at the Old Port jetty



Mission accomplished: My walk from the New Port to the Old Port was fairly uneventful. There were fewer vehicles on the highway than I had expected, and most of the traffic was going toward Tourlos instead of to Mykonos Town. Although a few motorcycles, cars and trucks sped past, most vehicles were cruise ship shuttle buses and taxis taking passengers back to the Costa Mediterranea. I passed approximately 50 cruisers who were walking back to the ship; most were in their fifties and sixties and fairly fit, judging by the quick pace they were maintaining.

The trip from port to port took me 35 minutes. I estimate it would take around 50 minutes for people to walk from a cruise ship at Tourlos right to the Mykonos Town center — it might take them five minutes to get from their ship to the point near Matthew Taverna where I started my walk, plus another 10 minutes to travel from the Old Port to the town center. That’s not too bad in the spring, but in peak summer, when the island is packed with tourist traffic and the sun is blazing hot, the hike would be brutal. I would not recommend it for anyone travelling to Mykonos in July or August — pay the small fee to ride the air-conditioned shuttle bus to and from Town instead.



Roca Cookery view

Roca Cookery view of the Mykonos Old Port. During the daytime, the large windows are opened up to allow an unobstructed view of the port area.



Roca Cookery

Roca Cookery view toward Mykonos Town



Great views: After pausing at the Old Port, I walked up the nearby hill to Roca Cookery, where I had dinner several nights earlier. I wanted to get some daytime photos of the restaurant. The waitress who had served us remembered me, and graciously let me take some photos of the restaurant interior. I had been impressed with the restaurant’s views the night we dined there, but the daytime views struck me as immensely better. The bright, light-filled space, with its superb views of the Old Port, the harbour, and Mykonos Town, would be a great spot to enjoy lunch or an afternoon drink.

After taking photos at Roca Cookery, I walked past the Mykonos Archaeological Museum next door, and followed the road as it curved past the Remezzo nightclub to the taxi, pedestrian and service vehicle entrance to the town center. I was feeling totally “walked out” by this point, and thought I should just head back to Hotel Tagoo to give my feet a well-deserved rest.  Along the way, I stopped at the Porto Mykonos Hotel to take a look at the reception and lounge areas, and see the views from the main hotel areas. It’s a very nice-looking hotel property — and the views are terrific.

Nearly 10 more minutes of walking brought me back to Hotel Tagoo. Just as I was about to enter the hotel gate, I noticed a cruise ship approaching the Mykonos Old Port area. It was the Crystal, one of the Louis Cruises ships that offers short Greek Islands itineraries. The Crystal was arriving for an evening port call that would last about five hours.


Mykonos Town

The view toward Mykonos Town from the road that runs past Roca Cookery and the Mykonos Archaeological Museum. The people at the bottom right corner of the photo are walking a footpath that links the Old Port to the town center.



Mykonos Town

Another Mykonos Town view from the road next to the archaeological museum



Remezzo nightclub

One of the entrances to the Remezzo nightclub near the archaeological museum



Space nightclub Mykonos

This van advertises another Mykonos nightclub, Space



Mykonos beach clubs

Promotional posters for Super Paradise Beach and the Tropicana Club at Paradise beach were taped to streetlamp posts on the road near the museum



Porto Mykonos Hotel

Guests at the Porto Mykonos Hotel enjoy this superb view of Mykonos Town



 a Mykonos building

A large whitewashed building below the road that leads to Hotel Tagoo



road to Hotel Tagoo

 Stone walls line both sides of the road that leads to Hotel Tagoo as well as to private homes and other hotels in the Tagoo area



 Louis Crystal cruise ship

The Louis Crystal cruise ship was approaching the Mykonos Old Port just as I returned to Hotel Tagoo. The ship would spend about five hours in port that evening.



Louis Crystal cruise ship

Passengers on the upper level watch as the Louis Crystal approaches the Mykonos Old Port



Last supper: After a quick shower and change of clothes, I went to the hotel pool bar to have a drink and consider where to go for my last dinner on Mykonos. Four other guests at the bar invited me to join them for dinner at Avli tou Thodori, a popular restaurant at Platis Gialos beach. I had never dined there before, but have heard extremely positive feedback about the restaurant and its cuisine, so I gladly accepted the invitation. It was a wise decision, since our meal at Avli tou Thodori turned out to be one of the best I’ve ever had on Mykonos.

Our group ordered carafes of red and white wine to accompany our appetizer selections of zucchini and tomato balls, grilled vegetables, meatballs in tomato sauce, “spicy patty with minced meat and yogurt sauce,” and Greek salad. Everything was absolutely delicious, and I loved every bite. I would be hard-pressed to pick a favourite from the bunch, since I enjoyed each dish so much I’d be happy to order them all again if I ever go back to the restaurant.  Although the five of us shared the starters, we each ordered individual main courses. I chose the kleftiko (lamb), which was outstanding. I have ordered kleftiko many times in Greece, but Avli tou Thodori’s was by far the best yet. For dessert, we shared a platter of melt-in-the-mouth loukoumades, a honey-drizzled doughnut-like treat. The service was stellar, and restaurant owner Thannasis Kousathanas, who also owns the Argo Hotel at Platis Gialos, came over to say hello and ask if  we were enjoying the restaurant. He got an instant earful of enthusiastic compliments, of course, and came back a few minutes later to join us for a lively longer conversation, chatting about everything from his hotel and taverna to Mykonos tourism and the state of the Greek economy.

Our group stayed at the restaurant until 11:30, thoroughly enjoying the ambience and good conversation — and more wine!  — before taking a taxi back to Hotel Tagoo. We arrived at the hotel shortly before midnight, hoping to have a nightcap at the bar, but the entire swimming pool and bar terrace was in darkness. It turned out that bartender Jimmy had closed up only minutes earlier, thinking we probably wouldn’t get back until much later. We debated walking to a bar in town for a drink, but then decided to just call it a night and get some sleep instead. Although I was curious to see if Mykonos Town was any busier and more animated than it had been on previous nights, I didn’t mind going to bed. I was content that my final night on Mykonos had featured such a memorable meal and enjoyable company.

(The other four people in the group enjoyed Avli tou Thodori so much, they returned the next day to have lunch and spend the afternoon relaxing on the lounge chairs that the restaurant provides on the beach. They emailed to tell me the food and service had been just as good as the night before. If you visit Mykonos, plan to have a meal at Avli tou Thodori. It’s definitely worth the trip to Platis Gialos. And be sure to check out the washrooms — people in our group loved their design and decor!)


Avli tou Thodori restaurant

The interior of Avli tou Thodori restaurant at Platis Gialos beach



Avli tou Thodori restaurant

The restaurant serves superb traditional Greek cuisine with a contemporary touch. My meal was one of the best dinners I’ve ever had on Mykonos.




Tuesday May 22 2012 — Departure to Paros


Sunshine returns: Of course it had to happen this way: the sun decided to make a triumphant return on the one day I didn’t have much time to enjoy it. My ferry to Paros was leaving in midafternoon, so I couldn’t go to a beach to enjoy the beautiful weather. I had a long, leisurely breakfast, chatting with other guests, then took my time packing. Once that task was out of the way I took a short walk to get some final photos of Mykonos Town and the Tagoo area. I watched the Orca, one of the Delos excursion boats, motor out of the harbour and Old Port, taking what appeared to be a full load of tourists to the sacred archaeological site. I noticed that two cruise ships were already at Mykonos: the Pullmantur ship Zenith was docked at the New Port, while the small French liner Le Levant was anchored near the Old Port. A third ship, the Splendour of the Seas, was approaching the island. I was willing to bet that Mykonos Town would, for once, be buzzing with all the extra visitors. Unfortunately, I wasn’t going to experience that buzz myself.

Three people from the hotel invited me to join them for lunch at Oregano Cook & Grill, a restaurant on the Tourlos highway a short drive from Hotel Tagoo. I had dined there once before and really enjoyed it; the restaurant serves big portions of delicious home-cooked food. Oregano has a large, sheltered dining terrace in front of the restaurant, facing the Tourlos highway, but seems to get more business from takeout and delivery orders than sit-down clientele. The delivery man was constantly on the go, while there was a steady stream of customers arriving to pick up orders they had telephoned in. It doesn’t take long to see why locals love the place so much. We ordered a Greek salad, tiropita, and grilled bread to share; for myself, I selected the tomatoes and peppers stuffed with rice and mincemeat. The portions were huge and we couldn’t finish all the food. 

It was almost time for me to get to the Old Port to catch the Flyingcat 4 ferry to Paros, so we returned to the hotel. I said goodbye to the other guests I had met and collected my bags. Yiannis had already left to drive other guests to the port, so Anna gave me a lift. After bidding her goodbye and thanking her for 8 days of exceptional and unforgettable Hotel Tagoo hospitality, I joined the long line on the quay. The ferry arrived slightly behind schedule about 15 minutes later, but boarding was quick, as was the Flyingcat’s departure from the Old Port. Less than 10 minutes after pulling away from the dock, the ship had left Mykonos in its wake. My wonderful Mykonos holiday had now officially come to an end.

But in a little more than an hour, I would be stepping onto another island for a new holiday experience — spring time in Paros.


Orca excursion boat

The excursion boat Orca leaves the Mykonos Old Port en route to Delos island



Orca excursion boat

Passengers on the Orca‘s open top deck look back at Mykonos Town as the boat leaves port



Le Levant cruise ship

The  small cruise ship Le Levant had anchored near the Mykonos Old Port. I had previously seen it at Milos in 2011. It carries 80 passengers and 55 crew.



Zenith cruise ship

The cruise ship Zenith was docked at the New Port. It carries 1,828 passengers.




Splendour of the Seas cruise ship arrives at Mykonos Old Port

 The Splendour of the Seas prepares to drop anchor near the Mykonos Old Port. The ship can carry almost 2,100 passengers and 720 crew.



Mykonos Town

I snapped one final photo of the windmills and the Mykonos Town harbour …



Mykonos Town

… and one last photo of the Paraportiani Church (right)



Oregano Cook & Grill

Outdoor dining terrace at Oregano Cook & Grill restaurant on the Tourlos highway



Oregano restaurant Mykonos

Another section of the Oregano dining area. Customers can order off the menu, but it’s best to go inside the restaurant to choose from all the different special items in the kitchen display case. Everything looks so  good, it’s difficult making a choice!



Hotel Tagoo swimming pool

It would have been a gorgeous day to relax in the sunshine at the Hotel Tagoo swimming pool — but I had to depart for another island




 Above is a video I shot through a salt-stained window on the Hellenic Seaways Flyingcat 4 highspeed ferry as we departed Mykonos for Paros. It shows views of the Paraportiani Church and Little Venice, Korfos Bay, Agios Ioannis and other parts of the Mykonos west coast as the ferry speeds from the Old Port on its scheduled route to Paros.



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