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  • Nafplio’s scenic seaside walks: The Arvanitia promenade and the Karathona beach path

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    Greece, Peloponnese, Arcadia, Nafplio, coast, seaside, walkway, promenade, trail, Arvanitia, Arvanitia promenade Nafplio, Nafplio coastal walkway, walkway, path,

    The Arvanitia promenade is a stone-paved walkway that winds along the seaside from Nafplio’s historic Old Town to Arvanitia beach 1 kilometer away

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Argolida, Nafplio, Karathona, trail, path, coast, seaside,

    The sand and dirt path to Karathona beach begins near Arvanitia, and meanders southward along the Argonic Gulf coast. The walking distance between the two beaches is roughly 2.7 kilometers, about a 30- to 40-minute trek.

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Argolida, Nafplio, Karathona, Karathona Bay, Karathona Beach, docks, harbour, harbor, fishing boats,

    Boats docked in the north corner of Karathona Bay. From here, Karathona beach extends nearly 2 kilometers around the bay. It takes half an hour to walk from this spot to the south end of the beach.

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Argolida, Nafplio, Karathona, church, Greek Orthodox church, Agios Nikolaos Church,

    A separate, third trail leads from Karathona beach to Agios Nikolaos church, which sits on a windy slope above the sea. It’s a pleasant, short hike that’s worthwhile if you reach the south end of Karathona Bay and wish to view more coastal scenery before your return walk to Nafplio.

     

    Wonderful walks:  Nafplio is commonly called “one of the most beautiful towns in Greece,” and rightly so — its historic Old Town is one of the prettiest places we have seen during our travels to more than two dozen islands plus a wide variety of places on the mainland and in the Peloponnese. 

    With its picturesque alleys, lanes and streets, charming old buildings, impressive public parks and squares, myriad monuments and historic sites, and an extensive selection of restaurants, bars and shops, Nafplio is fascinating to visit, whether just on a daytrip or for several days or more.

    Though the town itself is lovely, one of the features we personally love most about Nafplio is the surrounding natural scenery — an exhilarating expanse of rolling hills and mountains, rugged rocky peninsulas and shorelines, and captivating sea colours in the bays, beaches, coves and harbours that indent the  Argolic Gulf coast.

    Walking is the best way to observe and savour the marvellous scenery, and Nafplio boasts two wonderful seaside paths that rank among our favourite coastal walks in all of Greece — the Arvanitia promenade, and the footpath to Karathona beach. We make a point of walking at least one of the paths each day we are in Nafplio.

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Argolida, Nafplio, Acronauplia, Acronauplia peninsula, coast, seaside, Argolic Gulf

    Aerial view of the Acronauplia peninsula’s south side. The Arvanitia promenade can be seen at the base of the rocky cliffs and is partially visible where it snakes through the line of trees above the shore. The walkway ends at a square above Arvanitia beach (bottom right).

     

    The Nafplio Old Town is positioned on the northern slopes of Acronauplia, a thumb-shaped peninsula that juts into the Argolic Gulf (a body of water between the Arcadia and Argolida regions of the Peloponnese). The Arvanitia promenade begins at the Nafplio waterfront area known locally as The Shore, and curves around the western tip of Acronauplia, hugging the base of imposing steep cliffs covered in wide swaths of prickly pear and other cactus plants. The walkway ends at Arvanitia Square, a walking distance of approximately 1 kilometer.  The town’s popular sunbathing and swimming spot, the stone and pebble Arvanitia beach, is a short downhill walk from the square. 

    The footpath to Karathona starts a mere stone’s throw beyond the Arvanitia beach entrance. As it meanders south, it passes above several coves and secluded inlets as well as the pebble and stone strands known as Neraki beach. The path is a favourite route for local residents to power walk, jog, cycle and exercise their dogs. At a casual pace, it takes about half an hour to walk the 2.7 kilometer distance to a small harbour at the northern tip of Karathona beach. 

    Greece, Peloponnese, Argolida, Nafplio, Karathona, Karathona Beach, beach, coast, seaside

    Beach view from the south side of Karathona Bay

     

    Karathona is an exceptionally wide and gently curved beach that stretches nearly 2 kilometers — almost as long as the path from Arvanitia. While it has several sections organized with beach chairs, umbrellas and bars, there are plenty of wide-open spaces in between.  There is another small harbour at the southern end of the beach, along with several houses and Agios Konstantinos Church.  Across the road and parking area behind the houses is the starting point of yet another coastal path, this one a short, narrow trail that leads up and over a hill to the small whitewashed church of Agios Nikolaos. It takes less than 15 minutes to hike to the church, with superb views of the gulf and the mountainous coast of Arcadia throughout the trek (followed by excellent views of Karathona Bay and beach on the way back.)

    Strolling the Arvanitia promenade is often suggested as a “must-do” activity for Nafplio visitors, and we certainly agree. But we recommend that walking enthusiasts also make the invigorating hike to Karathona and onward to take a quick look at Agios Nikoloas Church.  These walks offer a great opportunity to get some exercise and fresh sea air while enjoying the tremendous views of coastal landscapes and the Argolic Gulf.

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Argolis, Nafplio,Bourtzi castle, castle, fortress, bay, sea, Banieres, coast,

    From the Arvanitia promenade, walkers can view two castles: the Bourtzi sea fortress, seen from a lookout spot above the Banieres swimming area …

     

    Greece,Peloponnese, Argolida, Nafplio, Palamidi castle, castle, fortress, mountain, peak,

    … and the massive Palamidi castle on the peak high above Arvanitia beach, seen as evening sun casts a golden glow on the mountain

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Argolida, Nafplio, Argolic Gulf, bay, sea, coast,

    Both walking paths overlook alluring turquoise waters in the Argolic Gulf …

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Argolida, Argolic Gulf, Nafplio, Karathona, coast, cliffs, landscape, mountain, seaside,

    …  exhilarating coastal landscapes …

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Argolida, Argolic Gulf, sea, bay, coast, mountains,

    … mountains in the Arcadia region of the Peloponnese to the west …

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Nafplio, Karathona, coast, seaside, shore, sea, bay, cove, water, Argolic Gulf,

    … pretty bays and quiet coves along the rugged shoreline …

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Nafplio, Arvanitia, Arvanitia beach, beach, seaside, coast, sunbathers, swimmers, sea,

    … organized beaches, like Arvanitia, which offer bars, restaurants, lounge chairs and umbrellas …

     

    Greece, Peloponnese, Nafplio, Karathona path, beach, Neraki beach, Neraki beach Nafplio, coast, seaside, sea, water,

    … and quieter beaches, like Neraki, with no facilities (or crowds)

     

    Please click on the links below to continue reading and to see many more photos of the Arvanitia promenade, Arvanitia beach, the Karathona path,  Karathona beach, the trail to Agios Nikolaos Church and of course the church itself.

    Page 2 contains some general information about the walking routes, as well as photos of the Arvanitia promenade.

    Page 3 features photos of the Karathona footpath and Karathona beach.

    Page 4 has pictures of Agios Nikolaos Church and its access trail.

     

    CONTINUED ON PAGE 2

  • Mykonos parties, live music events & DJ shows during 2019

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    Mykonos is the prominent supporting star in  the new music video Χωρις Εσενα, released July 23 by Greek singer Giorgos Tsalikis. During the summer, Giorgos and his band performed live at 4711 club for 65 nights. 

     

    Looking for a list of party events in 2020? Check out my article Mykonos party and event calendar 2020.

     

    Events during December

     

    Live music events at The Dublin Mykonos on November 29 and 30 and December 1

    The Dublin presents live music entertainment by Dimitris Drosinis on the evenings of November 29 and 30, and on the afternoon of Sunday December 1

     

    Announcement for the Sunday Party at El Burro Mykonos on December 1

    Apostolis G. will DJ the Sunday Party at El Burro on December 1

     

    Promotional ad for the Wednesday night Karaoke Party at Rustic Grill Mykonos

    Rustic Grill hosts its weekly Karaoke Party on Wednesday December 4 starting at 9 p.m.

     

    Vegera Mykonos promotional ad for its parties with DJ Jerry on December 6 and 7

    Vegera gets into the Christmas spirit with parties on Friday December 6 and Saturday December 7. The parties start at 10 p.m. and DJ Jerry will be playing the music.

     

    Promotional ad for the Stand Up Comedy Night at Central Mykonos on December 7

    Central hosts a live Stand Up Comedy show on Saturday December 7, featuring comedians Giannis Roussos, Alexandros Paspardanis and Konstantinos Bouras Bai’makos. Entry fee is €15 per person, and includes a drink.

     

    Promotional ad for the Sunday Party at El Burro Mykonos on December 8

    DJ Jerry will be on the decks for the Sunday Party at El Burro on December 8

     

    Promotional image for the Tuesday Quiz Night events at Notorious Bar Mykonos

    Notorious holds its Quiz Night on Tuesday December 10 

     

    Promotional ad for the Wednesday night Karaoke Party at Rustic Grill Mykonos

    The weekly Karaoke Party takes place at Rustic Grill on Wednesday December 11

     

    Taverna Kandavlos presents live music on Friday evening December 13, and on the afternoon of Sunday December 15

     

    Promotional image for a Latin Christmas party at Rustic Grill Mykonos on December 13

    Rustic Grill hosts a Latin Christmas Party on Friday December 13

     

    Wild Cafe Bar Mykonos presents Giannis Barbaris on December 14

    Wild Cafe Bar presents a live performance by Γιάννης Μπαρμπαρής (Giannis Barbaris) on Saturday December 14

     

    Promotional announcement for the December 14 Closing Party at Vegera Mykonos

    Vegera is throwing its final party of 2019 on December 14

     

    Promotional ad for Sunday DJ parties at Rustic Grill Mykonos

    Every Sunday, DJ Nassia T. will play for the “artistic folk evenings” at Rustic Grill

     

    Promotional ad for the V Bros rock music show at Central Mykonos on December 14

    The V Bros perform at Central on Saturday December 14

     

    Promotional image for the December 15 Sunday Party at El Burro Mykonos

    DJ Apostolis G. will play for the December 15 Sunday Party at El Burro

     

    Mokka Brunch Mykonos presents Tilemachos Zeis on Friday December 20

    Singer Τηλέμαχος Ζέης (Tilemachos Zeis) performs at Mokka Brunch on Friday December 20

     

    Promotional image for the DJ party at Rustic Grill Mykonos on December 20

    DJ Nassia T plays for the party at Rustic Grill on Friday December 20

     

    Taverna Kandavlos Mykonos live music events on December 20 and 22

    Taverna Kandavlos once again presents live music twice in one weekend — on Friday December 20 at 9 p.m., and on Sunday December 22 at 3 p.m.

     

    Rustic Grill Mykonos presents DJ Stathis on Saturday December 21

    Rustic Grill presents DJ Stathis on Saturday December 21

     

    Promotional ad for the Xmas Music Nights at El Burro Mykonos

    El Burro launches its Xmas Music Nights on Saturday December 21

     

    Central Mykonos presents Petros Veronis on December 12

    Petros Veronis, Daniel Kousathanas and Marianna Sanguita A Roe will perform live at Central on Saturday December 21

     

    Promotional image for El Burro Mykonos Christmas Parties December 24 and 25

    DJ Jerry plays for the Xmas Parties at El Burro on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day

     

    Promotional announcement for the Raya Mykonos Christmas Party on December 29

    Festive season celebrations continue at Raya on Sunday December 29 when it hosts a Christmas Party with music by DJ Giannis Oikonomou 

     

    New Years party at Toro Loco My Bar Mykonos

    Toro Loco will celebrate the arrival of 2020 with a New Year’s party on December 31

     

    El Burro Mykonos New Years Eve Party announcement

    El Burrow welcomes the arrival of 2020 with a New Year’s party on Tuesday December 31. 

     

    ~ See a listing of past events on page 2 ~

     

    What’s happening: Mykonos is in end-of-season mode, with bars, clubs and restaurants either closing up shop or preparing to wind down operations.

    As usual, the last weekend of September is closing party time for numerous establishments, including Scorpios, Moni, The Garden, JackieO’ Beach, and Elysium Hotel’s popular Sunset Cabaret.

    Parties are continuing at many bars in Mykonos Town, however, and beach parties are still going strong at Paradise beach, where Tropicana will be open until October 20.Page 2 of this post contains promotional flyers showing daily beach parties, regular weekly events and special event series. 

    Page 3 lists events that have taken place since March, in case you’re interested in seeing what has already happened.

    I update this post whenever new announcements are released, often several times per day, so check back regularly to see what’s new.

     

     

    CONTINUED ON PAGE 2

  • Magical moments in the rugged & remote Mani region of the Peloponnese

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    Beautiful coast and village scenery abounds in Mani, The Luxury of Remoteness — a 4.5-minute video by TAK Films & Frames

     

    Rugged beauty: Thanks to amazing experiences in the Peloponnese during three visits in the past three years, the region has become one of our favourite holiday destinations in Greece. Though we have covered considerable ground, there’s one significant part of the Peloponnese remaining on our bucket list — the Mani. 

    A rugged and remote peninsula, the Mani appeals to us not only because it’s off the busy tourist routes, but also since its scenic highlights include marvellous coastal landscapes, picturesque fishing ports, charming Byzantine churches and historic ancient sites, and fascinating fortified villages like Vathia, which boasts a striking skyline of imposing stone tower houses.

    We’re even more keen to visit the Mani after viewing the video above, which was produced by TAK Film & Frames and posted to its Facebook page just two days ago.

    Should watching the 4-and-a-half-minute film pique your own interest or curiosity in the Mani, here are a few articles and online resources you can peruse for further information, inspiration and advice:

    ♦  Inside the Mani — an online guide to  travel in the southern Peloponnese;

    ♦  Europe’s hidden coasts: The Deep Mani, Greece —  an article published by the travel section of The Guardian newspaper;

    ♦ The Mani Region page of the Feel Greece travel website, along with the related blog post 10 things you must do in Deep Mani

    ♦ The Discover Greece web page Mani: Land of tower houses and castles, wild and untamed; 

    ♦ The Mani page on the Hip Greece website for independent travellers; 

    ♦ The article Spring Destination: Wild yet gentle Outer Mani, from the Greece Is travel, gastronomy and culture website; and

    ♦ The post Exploring Mani in the depth of the Peloponnese, from the travel blog Two Travelling Greeks.

     

    Mani location on Google map

    The Mani peninsula is pinpointed by the red marker on this Google map of the Peloponnese region of Greece

     

  • Some photo highlights from our return visit to Nafplio

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    Nafplio waterfront

    Nafplio waterfront view to the Bourtzi sea fortress 

     

    Back again: Exactly two years ago, we travelled to Nafplio for the first time and spent a full week exploring areas in and around the town. We liked it so much we decided it was high time to come back for a return visit. And here we are, enjoying Nafplio just as much as we did the first time. It truly is one of our favourite places in all of Greece.

    Below are some sights and scenes from our first couple of days in the historic Old Town district of the picturesque seaside town.  I will publish more images in separate posts.

     

    Nafplio street

    A canopy of bougainvillea in a lane in the Old Town district of Nafplio

     

    Nafplio waterfront

    Cafes and palm trees along the Nafplio waterfront promenade

     

    Nafplio street scene

    A rustic building on a street corner in the Nafplio Old Town

     

    cruise ship at Nafplio

    The MSC Poesia cruise ship, viewed from the Arvanitia coastal promenade.  Daytrippers from the cruise gave the Old Town a lively buzz, but didn’t overcrowd the streets or make the town feel uncomfortably busy in any way.

     

    Banieres swimming area of Nafplio

    The Banieres swimming area on the Nafplio waterfront is a popular place for locals to sunbathe or take a dip in the sea

     

    a street in Nafplio

    One of the colourful pedestrian streets in the commercial area of the Old Town

     

    Palamidi Castle and the Land Gate

    The Palamidi Castle (top) and the historic Land Gate, the original main entrance to the Nafplio Old Town

     

    Palamidi Castle view of Nafplio

    An evening view of the Old Town, from a point roughly two-thirds of the way up the nearly 1,000 steps to the Palamidi Castle

     

    Palamidi Castle steps

    A steep flight of steps leading to the mountaintop Palamidi Castle. I counted 80 stairs on this particular stretch of the climb to the top.

     

    Acropnauplia fortress stairs

    It’s much easier to reach the Acronauplia fortress, one of the three castles at Nafplio, since considerably less stair climbing is involved. This is the stepped path leading from the upper Old Town to one of the Acronauplia entrance portals.

     

    Nafplio coast

    Coast and sea views from the Acronauplia fortress

     

    Coast views from Acronauplia

    Acronauplia fortress views of the sea, coast and Arvanitia beach

     

    Arvanitia beach at Nafplio

    Part of Arvanitia, a stone and pebble beach that’s popular with locals and tourists alike since it’s only a short walking distance from the Old Town

     

    Rooftops in Nafplio

    From a vantage point in the Acronauplia fortress, a view of Syndagma Square (upper right) and the first Greek Parliament building — the building with the domed roof at center left.  Nafplio was the capital of Greece from 1823 until 1834, when the Parliament was relocated to Athens. 

     

    Syndagma Square in Nafplio

    A quiet morning moment at Syndagma Square, which is lined with cafes, shops, restaurants and the archaeological museum (top)

     

    a street in Nafplio

    A street in the pedestrianized commercial area of the Old Town

     

    steps in Nafplio

    A long flight of steps on a hillside lane in the Old Town

     

    Kapodistriou Street in Nafplio

    Part of Kapodistriou Street, where our accommodations were located

     

    a lane in Nafplio

    A lane near the top of the Old Town’s hillside area

     

    Catholic church in Nafplio

    A peek at the exterior of the Catholic church in the Old Town

     

    Philellinon Square at Nafplio

    Philellinon Square and the memorial to the French soldiers who fought for Greece in the country’s war of independence

     

    a street in Nafplio

    A restaurant patio along one of the main pedestrian streets in the commercial heart of the Old Town

     

    steps in nafplio

    Steps in a narrow hillside lane in the Old Town

     

    Bourtzi sea fortress at Nafplio

    Nafplio waterfront view to the Bourtzi sea fortress

     

    Bourtzi sea fortress

    People can take a small excursion boat to visit the castle. The trips are offered daily and cost €4.50 per person; they include a 20 minute stop for a walkabout on the castle islet (the interior of the fortress is closed for maintenance construction) and a short ride along the waterfront so passengers can enjoy sea views of the Old Town.

     

    Arvanitia promenade

    The Arvanitia coastal promenade and the Banieres swimming area of Nafplio

     

    Arvanitia promenade at Nafplio

    A tree-shaded section of the Arvanitia coastal promenade that leads from the Nafplio Old Town to Arvanitia beach

     

    Arvanitia promenade

    View from the promenade toward Arvanitia beach and the Palamidi Castle, partially visible on the mountain peak at upper right

     

    waterfront in Nafplio

    The waterfront promenade is lined with palm trees on one side, and boats on the other

     

    a building in Nafplio

    A rustic corner building on a hilltop in the Old Town

     

  • April landslide prompts renewed warning of 5-year-old ban on visits to Santorini’s Red Beach

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    Red Beach Santorini

    With its breathtaking backdrop of soaring crimson cliffs, many tourists regard Santorini’s Red Beach as one of the top “must-see” attractions on the island. This image appeared on the Travel to Santorini page on Facebook.

     

    Red Beach Santorini

    Red Beach has officially been closed to the public since 2013 because of rockfall risks, but thousands of tourists ignore warning signs and visit regardless.  This photo, posted to Facebook by Hui Lin, shows a newlywed couple walking in the water at Red Beach on February 25 2018.

     

    Red Beach Santorini

     Luckily, no-one was injured when a landslide struck Red Beach on April 13 2018. This photo by Costas Konstantinidis shows the huge pile of sand and rock debris that slid onto the southern end of the beach.  The photo appeared in Greek news stories reporting on the latest rockfall.

     

    Beautiful but dangerous:  “Attention! Danger of landslides. No entry.”

    That’s the warning on signs posted along the access path to Santorini’s world-famous Red Beach, but each year thousands of tourists have ventured down to the beach regardless, to sunbathe, swim and shoot those all-important “I was here” selfies.

    Scores of people will probably visit Red Beach again this year, even though a landslide in mid-April confirmed there’s an ever-present danger that sections of the tall crimson cliffs that tower above the beach could collapse on them at any time.

    Widely considered to be one of the most beautiful and unusual beaches in the world, Red Beach resulted from the natural erosion of the cone of a small volcano. Comprised of loose layers of slag (volcanic cinder), the cone’s steep southern slope developed large cracks and fissures during seismic and volcanic activity; eventually, sections of the slope crumbled and slid seaward, creating the dramatic cliffs that rise above the stone and pebble shore today.

    The cliffs have been studied extensively by geologists and volcanologists from Greek universities and the Institute for the Study and Monitoring of the Santorini volcano, who concluded that further erosion cannot be stopped or prevented.  Since landslides are unpredictable and instantaneous, they urged island authorities to take steps to keep people from visiting Red Beach and potentially putting themselves in harm’s way.

     

    Red Beach Santorini

    This aerial image shows how the slopes of a former volcano cone have caved in and crumbled onto Red Beach over time. The photograph has appeared on many social media sites, including the Akrotiri and Knossos community page on Facebook, but I haven’t been able to find the original source to give proper credit for the image.

     

    The island municipality did close Red Beach to the public after a major landslide occurred in August of 2013, but most tourists have simply walked past the “no entry” signs that were put up. It’s possible many of the travellers weren’t aware there have in fact been major rockfalls, or perhaps they have thought the risk of one occurring during their visit was so infinitesimal it wasn’t worth worrying about. After all, if it was so dangerous, why would local and national travel and tourism businesses continue to recommend that people go there?

    Valid point indeed, since some Santorini tour agencies offer boat trips to the beach, while a variety of island hotels and travel businesses regularly encourage visits to Red Beach in photos and comments posted on their social media accounts. Enterprising local residents also have set up rental lounge chairs and umbrellas on the beach, along with a snack canteen — apparently in blatant violation of local regulations. And Aegean Airlines recently raised some eyebrows when it featured Red Beach on the cover of its in-flight magazine for March & April 2018, and in several photographs accompanying its feature story “The hidden treasures of Santorini” (one of the pics showed a female fashion model posing in front of a debris pile from a small landslide).

     

    Will anything change as a result of the most recent rockfall, which occurred on April 13?

    According to reports posted on the Greek news and information websites Atlantea and LIFO,  among others, the latest landslide prompted island authorities to issue a press release reminding people that “access to the Red Beach is forbidden” — as it has been since 2013 — so the beach remains off-limits for sunbathing, swimming, walking and other activities.

    “The area has been marked with warning signs, and it is urged by all those involved with tourism to respect these prohibitions in order to avoid accidents,” the municipal press release is quoted as saying.

    But since the “no entry” signs have been ignored for several years already, the municipality ultimately may have to consider installing physical barriers to ensure that people keep off the beach. As of this writing (on April 30 2018), tourists were still live-posting photos and reviews of Red Beach on their various social media pages, with some commenting that they noticed the hazard signs but went onto the beach anyway because they saw other people there.

    If you’re planning to visit Santorini but don’t wish to risk a visit to Red Beach, you can instead view dozens of photos of it in my May 2016 blog post The bewitching but dangerous beauty of Santorini’s Red Beach.

     

    Aegean Airlines Blue Magazine

    The cover photo for the March/April 2018 Aegean Airlines in-flight magazine shows a fashion model posing near rocks  at one end of Red Beach.  There are more shots of models on the beach in the magazine’s photo feature on Santorini’s natural “hidden miracles.”

  • Greek Island icons & landmarks: The blue-domed church high above the sea on Santorini

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    Agios Theodori Church

    Photos of Agios Theodori Church have inspired countless people to visit Santorini and other places in Greece — or to dream of going there

       

    Greek Islands Icons & Landmarks is a series of occasional posts about curious, unusual and extraordinary sights and places we have seen on our travels in the Greek Islands

     

    Celebrity dome: It’s a quintessential image of Greece:  a cute white chapel with a shiny blue dome, accompanied by a white belfry with three bells, sitting high above the sea on Santorini.   

    It’s called Agios Theodori, but like thousands of other churches in Greece, few people outside the country know its name. Nevertheless, it’s a familiar sight to millions around the world, since photos of the church have appeared for decades on travel posters, tour materials and in guidebooks, newspapers and magazines. Along with the Acropolis in Athens, that little whitewashed, blue-domed church is one of the main images people associate with Greece.

    I recall seeing pictures of Agios Theodori in the early 1980s, first at restaurants in Windsor, Ontario and Detroit’s Greektown, and then at travel agencies and restaurants along Danforth Avenue in Toronto’s Greektown, which was just a few blocks from where I was living at the time. That was long before I ever considered going to Greece, but the pictures of that blue-domed church stuck in my mind.

     

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    Agios Theodori church

     

    Agios Theodori church

     

     Over 20 years later we finally made it to Greece,  and Santorini was the last stop on our island-hopping holiday. Although I hoped we would see the famous blue-domed church, I didn’t know where to look for it. I figured that if we came across it while exploring the island, that would be great, but if we didn’t get to see it on this trip, perhaps we would some other time. 

    Imagine my surprise and delight when, only minutes after checking in to the Santorini Palace Hotel in Firostefani, we walked to the tip of the caldera cliff nearby to check out the views — and saw Agios Theodori church just a few meters directly below us. I was slightly stunned at first; it felt like the familiar image I had seen in print so many times had suddenly come to life before my eyes. 

    So was it as breathtaking and impressive as I had anticipated, after seeing it in photos all those years? You bet! There was absolutely no disappointment here —  the live view was spectacular. And to think the church was only a few dozen meters from the front door of our hotel! Now what were the odds of that happening? 

     

    Agios Theodori Church

     

    Agios Theodori church

     

    Agios Theodori Church

     

    We saw Agios Theodori church again, on each of our subsequent visits to Santorini, and it was still impressive to see. If we ever go back to the island I’m sure we’ll pass through Firostefani so we can take another look.

     

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    Below are several photos I found online, showing the church from perspectives we didn’t manage to photograph ourselves. There’s also a map indicating where Agios Theodori is located, should you want to see it in person yourself.

     

    Agios Theodori church

    The Agios Theodori belfry is seen in an image from the Petr Svarc Images page on Facebook

     

    Agios Theodori Church Firostefani

    The front of Agios Theodori church as seen from “street” level — actually, from the footpath that winds along the top of the caldera between Firostefani and Fira. Ting Lin shared this photo on Google Images.

     

    Agios Theodori Church

     Also from Google Images is this photo by Charles Cheng, capturing Agios Theodori at sunset

     

    Agios Theodori church location

    Agios Theodori church is marked as “Three Bells of Fira” on Google maps, but it isn’t in the town of Fira — it’s a 10- to 15-minute walk away if you follow the clifftop footpath from the cable car station and walk north toward Firostefani (keeping the sea on your left side).  To see it from the “travel poster and guidebook perspective,” make your way to the Santorini Palace Hotel. From the hotel entrance, walk up the short slope toward the sea, and head for the low wall at  the edge of the parking area. Look down to your left, and enjoy the view!

  • An afternoon at the Old Town and castle in Kyparissia

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    Kyparrisia Castle

    Houses on the hillside below the ruins of the Castle of Kyparissia, which was built during the 13th Century

     

    Impressive introduction: On the fourth day of our May 2017 road trip through the western Peloponnese we discovered another charming town to which we will have to pay a longer return visit sometime: Kyparissia.

    We had scheduled Kyparissia for just a sightseeing stop during our drive from Marathopoli to Katakolo, yet within minutes of stepping out of the car we were already wishing we could stay longer than just the afternoon. 

    That strong first impression came from the quick realization that Kyparissia has all the key features and characteristics we find particularly appealing in a small Greek town: beautiful scenery and views; a castle and lots of old buildings that convey a strong sense of history; plenty of intriguing lanes and streets to wander and explore; picturesque buildings and interesting architecture;  inviting places to have coffee, dine, and do a bit of browsing or shopping; and a comfortable “I feel at home here” ambiance.

    However, with fewer than five free hours before we would have to hit the road again, we knew we were only going to scrape the surface of all that Kyparissia and its surrounding area have to offer. Still, we enjoyed everything we did manage to see and do in our limited time, and we were glad we had included the town as one of the stops on our journey. We would consider Kyparissia to be a “must see” destination for anyone undertaking a driving tour like the one we did through the western Peloponnese, and we think it definitely deserves more than a quick look around.

     

    Kyparissia main street

    When we arrived at El. Venizelou Street in Kyparissia in late morning, clouds above the nearby mountains suggested we might get rained on. But most of the clouds cleared away, leaving us with bright sunshine all afternoon.

     

    Kyparissia former National Bank building

    We’re drawn to old buildings, whether derelict or restored, and we found the facade of the former National Bank building — now a historic landmark —  right across the road from where we parked the car upon arriving in Kyparissia

     

    a building in Kyparissia

    We found this once-elegant edifice near the National Bank, and spotted many more charming old buildings throughout the town

     

    Upon arrival in Kyparissia, we parked briefly on El. Venizelou Street in the lower town so we could have a look around and check out a few of the shops. The road was lined with a mix of commercial and residential buildings from different architectural design eras, including elegant old buildings, some of which — like the former National Bank — were in derelict condition, and others that were either in excellent shape or appeared to have been painstakingly restored. They gave us a sneak peak of the wide variety of building design styles and construction periods we would soon encounter in Kyparissia’s Ano Poli, the historic hilltop Old Town, where we had planned to spend most of our time.

    Our next stop was Eleni Chameri Street, the main road in the Old Town, where we found on-street parking close to the Memorial of the Fallen. The war monument is situated in a small square with amazing views that include the Castle of Kyparissia off to the right, and the entire town below, extending all the way down the hill to the sea.

     

    Kyparissia Old Town

    A view along the Eleni Chameri Street, the main road of the Ano Poli / Old Town district of Kyparissia

     

    Kyparissia panoramic view

    From the square where the Memorial of the Fallen monument is located, visitors can see the Castle of Kyparissia (upper right) and the town below

     

    From the memorial we walked to the Castle of Kyparissia, located at the opposite end of Eleni Chameri Street. We strode through the open gate (there is no ticket booth at the entrance) and climbed steps and trails up the hillside to see what remains of the ancient fortress. Apart from the external fortification walls, only a few stone buildings still stand on the site — but none are open to the public.  It doesn’t take long to wander around and explore the grounds, but the castle is worth a stop, especially for its wonderful views of Kyparissia and the surrounding area.

     

    Kyparissia Castle view

    Kyparissia Castle has excellent views of the upper town  …

     

    Kyparissia Castle view

    …  the lower town and the sea to the southwest …

     

    Kyparissia Castle view

    … and the lowlands, mountains and Messenian coast stretching to the north as far as the eye can see

     

    After our castle hike we returned to Eleni Chameri Street and made a beeline for Algo-rithmos Cafe Bar, where we sat in the shade at one of the tables out front to have coffees and rest our legs.  Refreshed from our coffee break, we all set out on our separate ways to explore the Old Town and vicinity. There was little traffic and only a few people out and about, so the neighbourhood was exceptionally quiet and peaceful. It was nice not having to jump out of the way of passing cars and trucks, or jostle past other pedestrians, while observing the scenery and taking photographs.  The place is probably bustling during July and August, so we were glad we got to enjoy the town’s scenic streets and lanes without hordes of tourists teeming about.

     

    Kyparissia Old Town

    The Old Town’s streets and lanes are lined with a fascinating mix of meticulously maintained houses …

     

    a church in Kyparissia

    … a few beautiful churches …

     

    a building in Kyparissia

    … and numerous derelict or dilapidated buildings bursting with charm, character and — in many cases — tremendous renovation potential

     

    We regrouped back at Algo-rithmos for another coffee break a couple of hours later, then did some souvenir shopping across the street at Messinia Gi, a store which carries an extensive selection of food, beverage, fashion and souvenir products made locally in Messenia. After more walking around, we all agreed it was time to call it quits on sightseeing, and find a nice spot for lunch. We chose Palia Agora, which is located just a few doors down the street from Messinia Gi, where we sat outdoors and enjoyed a variety of delicious mezes. I will tell you more about Messinia Gi and Palia Agora in a separate post.

    The fabulous meal brought our brief Kyparissia visit to an end on a high note. We reluctantly piled back in the car for the drive to Katakolo, where we would spend the night before heading to the port at Kyllini to catch a ferry to Kefalonia. We’ll go back to see more of Kyparissia another time. We’ve got to — it’s exactly the kind of place where we enjoying spending vacation time.

    Please click on the link below to turn to page 2, where I have posted more photos of the Old Town and castle, as well as a video of the castle and its views. 

    CONTINUED ON PAGE 2

  • Top beach, golf, diving and other outdoor activity attractions near Marathopoli

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    Proti Island

    Located just one nautical mile from the town of Marathopoli in southwestern Messenia, Proti Island is a popular day trip destination for swimming, snorkeling, scuba diving, rock climbing, cliff jumping and trekking. This aerial photo of Proti Island is from the website for the Artina hotels in Marathopoli.

     

    Lagouvardos, shown in this aerial video by Giannis Mpantes, is a long golden sand beach less than 3 kilometers from Marathopoli. It’s considered one of the top surfing spots in Greece, and also attracts enthusiasts of windsurfing, SUP, canoeing and other watersports. 

     

    Surf’s up!: In a recent post I noted that the quiet, laid-back town of Marathopoli is an ideal base for travellers wishing to explore Methoni, Pylos, Navarino, Voidokilia and other popular places in the Messenian region of the southwestern Peloponnese. 

    Even closer to the town are two noteworthy destinations that draw active travellers seeking scenic spots for outdoor sports activities such as swimming, surfing, windsurfing, snorkeling, scuba diving, rock climbing, trekking and fishing.

    Uninhabited Proti Island, which dominates sea views from the town, is approximately one nautical mile away and can be accessed in summer on boat trips from Marathopoli harbour.  The tours take passengers to secluded coves, including Grammeno Bay,  and stop at picturesque Vourlia beach for sunbathing, swimming, snorkeling or jumping into the sea from rocks and ledges along the rugged coast. 

     

    This aerial video of a boat trip to Vourlia beach on Proti island is from the website for Proti Cruises, which offers a variety of daily “mini cruise” excursions from Marathopoli

     

    Proti Island monastery

    The Monastery of the Assumption of Gorgopigi is one of the sights that hikers might encounter while walking some of the trails on Proti Island. This photo appears on the websites for Lagouvardos Apartments and other Marathopoli-area businesses.

     

     

    Trekkers can explore Proti Island on three designated hiking routes, while rock climbers can test their skills on the challenging cliffs and coastal rock formations. Fishing trips and sunset tours also are available.

    For those curious to see what lies beneath the waves, Ionian Dive Center offers scuba diving excursions to such island sites as the Anouar shipwreck in Vourlia Bay, the Tiganakia wall and cavern, the Blue Hole cavern with stalactites, Callens Valley and the  Beacon Cove.

     

    This video by Ionian Dive Center will take you to the Blue Hole, one of the sights that scuba divers could explore during excursions to Proti Island

     

    Lagouvardas beach

    This photo from the official Marathopoli tourism website shows an aerial view of the long strip of golden sand at Lagouvardos beach

     

    Lagouvardos Beach is only 3 kilometers from Marathopoli so it can easily be reached by car, bicycle or even walking. The Culture Trip website has included Lagouvardos on its list of The Best Surfing Spots in Greece, while travel publications and online guides regularly recommend the beach for windsurfing, stand up paddle boarding (SUP), swimming, canoeing and other watersports. Equipment rentals and lessons are available from the Beach Break surf club at Lagouvardos.

    For beach lovers and watersports fans who don’t mind driving a little farther afield, some of Messenia’s most beautiful and world-famous beaches — including Vromoneri, Mati, Romanos, Golden Sands Divari, and the incomparable Voidokilia — are situated within a span of just 7 to 15 kilometers. 

     

    Vromoneri Beach

    Just 7 kilometers from Marathopoli is Vromoneri beach, seen in an image from AllMessenia.com

     

    Located about 9 km from Marathopoli is gorgeous Mati beach, seen in this aerial video by KOABeach Pool Bar

     

    Additionally, the Marathopoli area is ideal for bicycling and mountain biking, while two globally renowned 18-hole courses at nearby Costa Navarino offer golfers the opportunity to tee off in spectacular settings.

     

    Dunes Golf Course at Navarino

    Award-winning world-class links await golf enthusiasts at Costa Navarino, just 13 km from Marathopoli. The green pictured above is on The Dunes Course, while the one below is on The Bay Course. Both images are from the Costa Navarino Facebook page.

     

    Bay Course golf course at Navarino

    More stunning photos and extensive information about the two golf resorts can be found in the golf section of the Costa Navarino website.