Trees ravaged by a forest fire in 2000 overlook a quiet bay on the northeast tip of Samos, near the Agia Paraskevi fishing village
The view from our balcony at the Andromeda hotel in Kalami, Samos
One big miss, two great hits: In my earlier posts about Greek Island views, I recounted how we were “on a roll” in terms of picking places to stay where we could see impressive scenery without leaving the hotel premises. Whether it was from our room’s windows or balcony, or the hotel’s dining area or pool terrace, we always seemed to luck out with amazing views of sea and island scenery and sometimes glorious sunsets, too. Well, that run of good views came to a screeching halt at our very first hotel destination in 2010.
Kos was our first island stop in May 2010, and we stayed at Saint Constantin Hotel in Kos Town. When I booked our room, I knew it wouldn’t have a sea view, but I kept hoping there would be something interesting to see from our balcony or somewhere on the hotel grounds. Unfortunately, it didn’t turn out that way, and we wound up with our worst island views ever. Thankfully, good scenery was less than a 10-minute walk away. (The hotel itself was all right, by the way.)
Patmos was our second island, and the Hotel Golden Sun at Grikos Bay more than made up for the lousy views at Kos Town. I was already impressed by the hotel’s views while still sitting in the taxi that drove us to there from the ferry port, and when I walked onto our balcony I was totally blown away by the awesome scenery. We overlooked the full Grikos valley and bay area, and could even see the coast of Turkey. Mountains obscured sunset views, but Tragonissi Island and the mountains surrounding the bay took on a gorgeous golden glow in the late afternoon/early evening sun, and we got to see rainbows above nearby Petra Bay as a storm system moved over the region.
Samos was our final island-hopping destination, and good views continued at both our hotels there. We spent our first night in the island’s largest town, Vathi (a.k.a. Samos Town), staying at the Samos Hotel (which now also calls itself Samos City Hotel). It was situated on Vathi’s main street — a wide waterfront road that curls around the foot of Vathi Bay. Our second floor room overlooked the bay, with great views of the Vathi ferry port and main street, while the hotel’s huge rooftop pool and bar terrace had tremendous views of the entire town and bay. The next day we moved to the Andromeda Hotel in Kalami — a resort region in the scenic “suburbs” of Vathi, a 20-minute walk away. The breathtaking balcony views of Vathi Bay rivalled the Grikos Bay scenery we had enjoyed on Patmos, but came with an added bonus: direct sunset views.
Though Kos was a complete write-off for views, Patmos and Samos clearly ranked among the best we have experienced. So we can’t complain about Kos; as the saying goes, “two out of three ain’t bad.” Below are photos of our views (and lack thereof) from the Saint Constantin Hotel on Kos, the Hotel Golden Sun on Patmos, the Samos Hotel in Vathi, and the Andromeda Hotel in Kalami, Samos. (Unfortunately, the Andromeda doesn’t yet have a website.) To view some short videos of the views from the Hotel Golden Sun, see my May 12 2011 post. There’s a clip of the view from the Andromeda Hotel at the bottom of this post.
Our balcony at the Saint Constantin Hotel in Kos Town looked directly onto the balcony for a room at the hotel next door. Thankfully, our balcony doors had dark-tinted glass to provide a bit of privacy
If we peered over the balcony and looked to the right, we could see the street
This was our view, looking to the left
The hotel’s breakfast area had a view of the street …
… as well as the ground-level swimming pool and bar terrace
This is what the street outside the hotel looked like
At the Hotel Golden Sun on Patmos, our balcony had this fabulous view of Grikos Bay, Tragonissi Island (right) and the coast of Turkey
Our balcony, on the Hotel Golden Sun’s upper level, gave us a panoramic view of the entire Grikos valley and bay area
To the left our balcony overlooked the small harbour on Grikos Bay
To the right, our balcony overlooked Tragonissi Island and Kalikatsou Rock
The outdoor breakfast terrace had terrific views of Grikos Bay …
… as well as the surrounding hillsides of the valley above the bay …
… where construction of new luxury hotels and villas is underway (happily, we weren’t disturbed by any noise from the work activity there, or from lower in the valley where workers were finishing the new 5-star Patmos Aktis Suites & Spa.)
In the main town of Vathi on Samos, the rooftop terrace at the Samos Hotel offers tremendous views of the city, the port, and Vathi Bay
Our balcony overlooked the Vathi ferry pier (plus other balconies on our floor)
Here’s a daytime view of the ferry port from our balcony …
… and a night view of houses on the hillsides above Vathi Bay
To our left, we could look down the main waterfront street in Vathi
At the Andromeda Hotel in the Kalami area of Samos, our room had a narrow, small balcony with a really, really big view
To the immediate left of our balcony were some luxury rental villas on the hillside
Also to the left were views of Vathi Bay
This is the first view we saw each morning when we walked onto the balcony
We rode bikes to the scenic seaside village of Kokkari on the far side of the bay
To the right we had views of houses on the Kalami hillside above Vathi Bay …
… as well as other bay-view balconies on our floor. (I know it doesn’t look very private, but hotel guests tended to watch the scenery and sunsets, rather than their neighbours, whenever they sat on their balconies.)
There was a long, narrow terrace overlooking the bay next to the Andromeda’s breakfast room; if we got up early enough, we could eat outside (those tables were popular, and almost always occupied).
During breakfast, we watched tour boats travelling to and from Kusadasi, Turkey
The Andromeda had a huge swimming pool with great views of Vathi Bay
At the bottom of the hill, the hotel had a private seaside sunbathing area …
… with great views of Vathi Bay and the surrounding hillsides
Each evening, almost everyone at the Andromeda Hotel relaxed on their balcony with a bottle of wine while watching the gorgeous sunsets
This was one of the sunset views we enjoyed watching from our balcony …
… and this was another — we saw a beautiful sunset every night
A hillside view overlooking the aptly-named Long Beach at Kokkari on Samos
One village, three beaches: The picturesque seaside village of Kokkari on Samos boasts something few other towns in the Greek Islands can brag about: three beaches. On one side of the village is Long Beach, a very long (of course) pebbly beach lined with shops, bars and tavernas and offering rental lounge chairs and umbrellas. On the other side are two crescent-shaped beaches, also pebbly, that sit back-to-back, separated by a small strip of land. Oddly enough, they’ve both got the same name: Small Lemonakia. Below are pics of the two Lemonaki beaches, along with brief videoclips of them.
The Small Lemonakia beach closest to Kokkari (just a two-minute walk away)
The second Small Lemonakia beach is literally a stone’s throw away from the first
Houses, tavernas and boats beside the harbour in Kokkari
Hotel hopping: Samos was our third (and final) island destination in 2010. Like Patmos, it had terrific scenery, good hiking and cycling, and was another laid-back, perfect place for relaxing. We enjoyed it almost as much as Patmos, and may have liked it more if our meals had been enjoyable as the two we had at Flisvos taverna. That’s not to say the food wasn’t good on Samos; it was. Our meals just weren’t as memorable as the ones we had on Patmos. We had a great time here, but again had only one regret about going: not enough time. Samos is a large island and, as it turned out, we got to see only a small part of it. But that means there’s so much more for us to see next visit.
What we liked about Samos:
The walking & cycling. We had a blast cycling from Vathi, the main port town on Samos, to the scenic seaside village of Kokkari, as well as through the resort area called Kalami. Eploring Vathi’s steep, stepped streets on foot was fun, too. When we first approached Vathi, in a taxi from the port town of Pythagorion (where we had arrived by ferry from Patmos), it looked like a small city — much bigger than we’d been expecting — and we weren’t sure we would like it. But it grew on us, and we really enjoyed it.
The scenery. Until this holiday, most of our island hopping had been in the Cyclades, where the islands share some common visual characteristics: rocky, barren landscapes dotted with whitewashed cube-shaped houses and picturesque blue-domed churches. Samos was completely different: its mountains and hillsides were lush and thick with trees and green vegetation, while its buildings topped with terra cotta-coloured tile roofs gave it somewhat of a western Mediterranean look and feel. But like the islands in the Cyclades, Samos had gorgeous mountain, coastline and beach scenery, charming towns and friendly people.
The views from our hotels. We spent our first night at the waterfront Hotel Samos in Vathi, where our balcony had terrific views of the town and Vathi Bay. We spent the next three nights at the Andromeda Hotel in Kalami, where we had even better views of mountains, coastlines and Vathi Bay, not to mention spectacular sunsets.
Here are a few photos from our visit.
Houses with terra cotta-coloured tile roofs in the port town, Vathi
Houses on a hillside above Vathi Bay
Hotel Samos in Vathi, where we spent our first night on the island
A view of the Vathi waterfront from the Hotel Samos rooftop patio
Businesses along the waterfront street in Vathi
The main town square in Vathi
A steep stepped street in Vathi
A street in Vathi
Another Vathi street with dozens of steep steps
Kids playing on a street in Vathi
A spiral staircase at an apartment building in Vathi
A building at the corner of two hillside streets in Vathi
A long street leading down the hill toward Vathi Bay
A car parked on a steep road in Vathi
A huge church in Vathi
A colourful café in the main town square in Vathi
A gas station on the street level of an apartment building in Vathi
Another steep Vathi street
The Colossal Kouros in the Vathi archaeological museum is almost 5 meters tall
I know people at my gym who would kill to have a rock-hard butt like this
Colourful umbrellas on Gagou beach near Vathi
Two cats outside a house near Gagou beach
Apartments overlooking Roditses beach a short walk from Vathi
The Andromeda Hotel in Kalami, where we stayed for three nights
Our balcony at the Andromeda Hotel had views across Vathi Bay
Our balcony also had views of houses on the hillside above the Kalami coastline
Our balcony overlooked the hotel’s big swimming pool
Another view of the swimming pool at the Andromeda Hotel
Our best dinner on Samos was the home-cooked meal that Nico & Mama prepared for us at the Andromeda’s poolside bar and café (left)
The coastline below the Andromeda Hotel
The view to the right from the seashore below the Andromeda Hotel
A view of Vathi Bay from the countryside in Kalami
A quiet bay near Agia Paraskevi, past Kalami
Looking across Vathi Bay toward Kalami during our bikeride to Kokkari
A beach near the mouth of Kalami bay
The view toward Kalami and Vathi from a hillside across the bay
Houses on a hill above the harbour in Kokkari
Harbourside tavernas and bars in Kokkari
A postcard shop in Kokkari
Harbourside houses and tavernas in Kokkari
Cats find a shady spot to sleep next to a small seaside house in Kokkari
The main beach — one of three — at Kokkari
Lounge chairs and umbrellas on the main beach at Kokkari
A hillside view of the main beach in Kokkari
One of the three beaches at Kokkari, this stony beach is separated from another by just a thin strip of land (visible at upper left)
This is the other Kokkari beach just around the bend from the one pictured above
Enjoying a beautiful sunset from our balcony at the Andromeda Hotel