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Monumental sunsets at the Portara on Naxos

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The Portara on Naxos at sunset

The Portara monument is a superb sunset viewing spot at Naxos Town

 

Golden globes: On Naxos, it’s easy to combine history and culture with a bit of sightseeing and sunset viewing all in one free self-guided excursion just a few minutes’ walk from Naxos Town.

All you have to do is take an evening stroll along the short causeway leading to the peninsula on the edge of town (an area known as the Palatia district). Climb the hillside, and you’ll find yourself on one of the island’s best sunset viewing spots, right next to one of the most famous monuments on the island — the giant stone door frame known as the Portara. (If you arrive at Naxos by ferry, you will probably see the Portara as your boat approaches the port.)

Dating from the 6th Century B.C., this remnant of an Archaic temple is described in some guidebooks as the Temple of Apollo, while others call it Ariadne’s Arch (apparently, historians and archaeologists can’t conclusively establish the Greek god in whose honour the structure was originally built).

Though its origins might still be a mystery, what’s beyond question is that the hillside around the Portara is an excellent place to watch sunsets and to enjoy superb views of Naxos Town, its harbour, and its nearby coastline.

Below are some of our photos of the Portara and the peninsula, and of course the sunsets and views from both.

 

Naxos port

I snapped this photo of the Portara and the Palatia peninsula when our ferry arrived at the port at Naxos Town, on one of our trips to Naxos.

 

Naxos Town harbour

A view of the Portara from the marina at the bustling Naxos Town waterfront

 

Tourist sign in Naxos Town

This sign near the harbour points the way to the Palatia peninsula

 

sculpture at Naxos Town

You’ll pass this replica of a sculpture while you walk toward to the causeway; it stands on the right-hand side of the walkway.

 

The Palatia peninsula on Naxos

Looking toward the Palatia peninsula from the stone-paved path on the causeway. Locals like to swim in the bay just below steps at the bottom of the hill.

 

The Portara monument on Naxos

The Portara comes into view as I approach the top of the hill

 

The Portara monument on Naxos

The Portara has numerous names, including the Temple of Apollo, The Doorway to Ariadne’s Palace, and Ariadne’s Arch

 

The base of the Portara monument on Naxos I

The base of the giant doorway

 

Naxos Town viewed from the Portara monument

A view of Naxos Town from the base of the monument

 

The Portara monument on Naxos

Another view of Naxos Town and the harbour area behind the Portara

 

The Portara monument on Naxos

There isn’t much that remains of the temple besides its famous doorway. Most of the ruins, including the arch, are roped off so tourists can’t walk on them.

 

The Portara monument on Naxos

Most tourists try to get one of these “I was there” photos of themselves framed by the giant stone doorway …

 

Portara monument on Naxos

… but some people just don’t like to have their photos taken

 

The Portara monument on Naxos

 The giant monument dwarfs tourists walking on the hillside behind it

 

The Portara monument on Naxos

The Portara stands like a sentry above Naxos harbour and St George’s Bay

 

Stelida mountain on Naxos

The peninsula offers a good view of Stelida mountain on the far side of the bay …

 

The Grotta area of Naxos Town

… and, in the other direction, the Grotta district of Naxos Town

 

Tourists on the Palatia peninsula at Naxos

Some tourists stand or sit at the top of the hill to await the sunset …

 

Portara monument on Naxos

… some enjoy a cold beer and check out the scenery while they wait …

 

Tourists on the Palatia peninsula on Naxos

… while others find a comfy spot above the sea offering a good direct view to the west, facing nearby Paros island …

 

Tourists taking photos in Naxos

… so they can get photos of the sun setting behind the distant island mountains …

 

Naxos view of a sunset behind Paros island

… much like this photo I snapped …

 

Tourist photographing the Portara at sunset

… while others prefer to photograph the Portara with the sunset behind it

 

Palatia peninsula overlooking Naxos Town

Two tourists begin the walk back to Naxos Town after viewing the Portara

 

Naxos Town harbour

Overlooking the Naxos waterfront and harbour from the Portara

 

Naxos Town

A view of Naxos Town from the hillside next to the Portara

 

Naxos Town

Hillside view of the causeway and Naxos Town

 

Naxos Town

Looking toward Naxos Town from the causeway. Locals like to swim off the right-hand side of the walkway.

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The Portara monument on Naxos at sunset

A sunset view of the Portara from the causeway

 

The Portara monument on Naxos

A sunset view of the Portara from the seashore below the Grotta district

Favourite tavernas: Fond memories of traditional Greek cuisine at Aktaion taverna on Santorini

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Aktaion Taverna Santorini

Aktaion taverna in Firostefani village on Santorini

 

Local specialties: We haven’t been to Santorini in several years, but we still talk about how much we have enjoyed Aktaion taverna in Firostefani.

We discovered this little restaurant gem back in 2004 when we stayed at the Santorini Palace Hotel during our first trip to the island.  Aktaion is situated just a short walk from the Santorini Palace, right beside the scenic clifftop footpath that links the village of Firostefani with the island’s bustling main town of Fira.

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Amazing Amorgos and the bedazzling Big Blue

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vivid blue Aegean Sea

“The Big Blue” is a nickname that befits the breathtaking colours of the Aegean Sea off the east coast of Amorgos, below the Chozoviotissa Monastery …

 

Kalotyri Bay Amorgos

… but there are striking, vivid tones of turquoise and blue all around Amorgos, including Kalotyri Bay on the north coast off Nikouria Island (top) …

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Nikouria Island across Egali Bay on Amorgos

… and Egali Bay, seen here looking southwest toward Nikouria Island

 

Breathtaking blues: I’m always surprised when I read online travel forums and see how many people seem to believe that Santorini is the only island in the Cyclades with spectacular scenery. Santorini is incredibly beautiful, there’s no doubt about that. And while it may be incomparable, it doesn’t hold a monopoly on drop-dead gorgeous landscapes and seascapes. I’ve been impressed by the scenery on Milos and Folegandros, too, and I’ve been absolutely awestruck by Amorgos. Or, as I sometimes like to call it, Ahhhh!morgos.

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Our windowless cave-style Santorini hotel room with its low ‘hobbit’ door

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Cliffside Suites Santorini Room 119

Room 119 at Grotto Villas/Cliff Side Suites in Firostefani had no window …

 

Grotto Villas Cliffside Suites Suite 119

… and the door was only 5 feet 5 inches tall. Don’t forget to duck!

 

Head knocker: Santorini is world-renowned for spectacular scenery, and its magnificent caldera views drew us back to the island three consecutive years in a row. We just couldn’t get enough of the breathtaking landscape, colourful clifftop villages and endless views of the gorgeous blue Aegean Sea. So imagine our reaction when we arrived at the Grotto Villas/Cliff Side Suites hotel in Firostefani to discover that our assigned room — #119 — didn’t even have a window!

That happened back in 2006, but I still remember our surprise and disappointment like it were yesterday. It would be bad enough to be assigned a windowless hotel room anywhere when you’re travelling on vacation. But on Santorini of all islands? There ought to be a law against it! To add insult to injury, the room door had a low frame, and I kept banging the top of my head on it whenever I went in and out. I’m only 5’7, and until I arrived at Grotto Villas/Cliff Side Suites I never expected that I would ever be too tall to walk into a hotel room while standing upright!

 

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Chill out! Truly cool Greek Island pools

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Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool

The gorgeous swimming pool at the Honeymoon Petra Villas in Imerovigli is positioned on the Santorini caldera cliffside hundreds of feet above the Aegean Sea …

 

Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool

… with spectacular views of Nea Kameni, the volcano island

 

Deep freeze: There are two great ways to beat the extreme summer heat in the Greek Islands: go for a swim in the sea, or take a plunge in a really cool hotel pool. But depending on the time of season you travel, there’s a good chance the pool could be cooler, if not downright frigid. There’s also a chance the water in both the sea and the pools could be too cold for swimming altogether. At least, that’s been our experience.

We typically travel to Greece in May, and have always encountered hot weather — including brief but brutal heat waves on Naxos and Santorini that sent afternoon temperatures soaring to nearly 40 Celsius. But regardless of how hot the air temperature got, the Aegean Sea has always been too cold for us to swim. In fact, there have been times I couldn’t even wade in the water during visits to Mykonos, Naxos, Paros and Santorini because it felt like my feet started to freeze only seconds after stepping in. Even just dipping my toes in the water at Super Paradise beach on Mykonos one May was too painful because the water was so bitterly cold.

Surprisingly, our hotel swimming pools haven’t been much warmer. And sometimes they’ve actually been colder! I could count on one hand the number of times we were able to spend more than five minutes in a pool, and on just one finger the number where we lasted longer than 10 minutes.

Even when we travelled to the islands during the second half of September one year, we got to swim only twice — once in the sea (which was blissfully warm) and once in a pool (which was shockingly cold) — even though Greece had experienced blistering heat waves throughout the summer.

Are we disappointed that we haven’t been able to do more swimming in Greece? Maybe just a bit. We’ve had good times at plenty of island beaches, and we’ve enjoyed spectacular views from most of our hotel swimming pool terraces. Cooling off with an ice cold bottle of Mythos instead of a swim hasn’t been so bad!

I’ll tell you more about our pool and sea swimming experiences in upcoming “Chill Out!” posts. For today, however, here are pics of some of the cool swimming pools we’ve seen during our visits to Santorini.

 

Dana Villas in Firostefani Santorini

The cliffside swimming pool and whirlpool at Dana Villas in Firostefani

 

Dana Villas swimming pool

Another view of the Dana Villas swimming pool and terrace

 

Pegasus Suites Hotel Imerovigli Santorini

The cliffside swimming pool at Pegasus Suites hotel in Imerovigli …

 

Pegasus Suites Santorini swimming pool terrace

… has a terrace that juts over the island’s rugged volcanic cliffs

 

swimming pool in Firostefani on Santorini

Swimmers can watch ferry and cruise ships come and go from this sea view swimming pool atop the caldera in Firostefani

 

swimming pool at Firostefani on Santorini

 Another clifftop hotel swimming pool in Firostefani

 

swimming pool in Firostefani on Santorini

Yet another Firostefani pool terrace with views of cruise ships

 

a swimming pool in Firostefani on Santorini

A closer look at the Firostefani pool pictured above

 

a swimming pool in Fira on Santorini

A small caldera-view swimming pool on the cliffside in Fira

 

swimming pool in Imerovigli on Santorini

An air mattress floats in a cliffside swimming pool in Imerovigli …

 

Santorini swimming pool terrace

… while lounge chairs on the adjacent terrace overlook Skaros Rock

 

Kafieris Blue Apartments swimming pool in Santorini

The caldera-view swimming pool at the Kafieris Apartments in Firostefani

 

Kafieris Blue Apartments Firostefani Santorini

Another view of the pool at the Kafieris Apartments

 

Kafieris Apartments Firostefani swimming pool

The Kafieris Apartments swimming pool at night

 

swimming pool in Firostefani on Santorini

I’ve always loved the look of this pool and terrace at what appears to be a private villa on the cliffside in Firostefani …

 

swimming pool in Firostefani Santorini

… from above, the pool’s shape reminds me of an apple …

 

private swimming pool in Firostefani on Santorini

… there’s comfy cushions for lounging in the sun beside the pool …

 

Swimming pool terrace in Firostefani Santorini

… as well as lounge chairs and a shady nook nearby

 

private swimming pool in Firostefani on Santorini

The big palm tree next to the pool draws some attention away from the villa’s unique Cycladic architecture

 

private swimming pool in Firostefani on Santorini

Here’s another view of the palm tree and the pool …

 

private swimming pool in Firostefani on Santorini

… which has an infinity edge offering great views of the sea far below

 

Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool

The uniquely shaped and situated pool at the Honeymoon Petra Villas in Imerovigli offers some of the most stunning views in all of Santorini

 

Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool on Santorini

The swimming pool and terrace offer incredible views in several directions

 

Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool on Santorini

The pool is built into the cliffside hundreds of feet above the sea …

 

Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool on Santorini

… and has a shallow wading pool on the hotel level below

 

Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool on Santorini

A side view of the Honeymoon Petra Villas pool …

 

Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool on Santorini

… and some of the apartments built of volcanic rock from the island

 

Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool on Santorini

One final view of the Honeymoon Petra Villas swimming pool, this time from the clifftop footpath that leads to Oia in one direction, and to Fira in the other

 

A visit to Agios Ioannis, the beach where the “Shirley Valentine” movie was filmed

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Agios Ioannis beach at Mykonos

A girl plays in the sand at Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos,  better known to many as the “Shirley Valentine beach.” Delos (left) and Rinia (right) are the two islands across the channel.

 

Shirley was here: Like millions of other people, I first “saw” Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos in the 1989 “Shirley Valentine” movie starring Oscar-nominated actress Pauline Collins. It only took me 22 years, but in May I finally got to see “the Shirley Valentine beach” with my own eyes (and camera). On previous visits to Mykonos I had seen almost all of the island’s major beaches, but just never managed to get over to Ag. Ioannis. It’s a bit out of the way, for one thing, and several people had told me it wasn’t worth a special trip (they said the beach was small, wasn’t very scenic, and didn’t have much to offer apart from several pricey hotels and a couple of tavernas). But after renting the “Shirley Valentine” DVD during the winter, I decided it was time to finally check it out this year. It is, after all, one of the most famous beaches on Mykonos.

My partner and I walked there from Mykonos Town (with a stop to check out Ornos beach along the way) on May 17, a sunny and breezy warm day. Surprisingly, hardly anybody was at Ag. Ioannis, even though the weather was great. I could count on two hands the total number of people on the entire beach that afternoon, though there were probably twice as many gazing at the sand, the sea and nearby Delos and Rinia islands from shaded patio terraces at two of the beachside tavernas — Christo’s and Hippie Fish. [Editor’s update: Christo’s is now Pili Restaurant.} 

 

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After our very long (and mainly uphill) hike from Ornos we needed a break from the hot sun, too, so after taking a few photos of the beach and surrounding area, we beelined for a shaded table at Hippie Fish. It just happens to be the very taverna where Shirley Valentine got a job in the movie, and there’s a sign right out front that boasts: “As seen in the movie ‘Shirley Valentine.'” Well, not quite. The place was called Sunset Taverna back in those days, and looked like a typical rustic Greek taverna. Now, as Hippie Fish, it sports a sophisticated white colour palette that gives the restaurant/bar a bright contemporary look and feel. Hippie Fish still serves dishes “inspired” by traditional Greek and Myconian cuisine, but in keeping with the times (and more likely the particular demands of international travellers staying at some of the expensive luxury hotels on the surrounding hillsides), it has added a sushi lounge. We only dropped in for a drink so I can’t tell you if the food is good (we didn’t look at a menu, so I can’t even say if the prices are reasonable), but we did enjoy relaxing on their patio, looking at the islands across the bay and watching waves wash against the sandy beach just a few meters below our table.

As for the beach: it’s nicer than I had expected, though it does feel much smaller and narrower than most of the island’s other major beaches. I would go back if travelling in May, early June or September, but would probably avoid it during peak season since it looked like it could get crowded quickly. (When we were there, it was incredibly serene — perfect for relaxing.) And it’s really not as out of the way as I had thought — only about 4 km. The bus runs regularly (it made seven return trips per day in May) and cost only €1.60 each way. We’d actually like to stay in Ag. Ioannis on a future visit since it was such a quiet area. Maybe next year … 

Keep scrolling to view a series of photos we shot on our walk to Agios Ioannis, as well as the beachfront itself.  More photos from our hike can be viewed in the Mykonos 2011: Agios Ioannis album on the mygreecetravelblog.com Facebook page.

 

Agios Ioannis bay on Mykonos

Approaching Agios Ioannis bay on Mykonos from a road atop a nearby hillside

 

cactus on the hillside above Agios Ioannis bay Mykonos

Cactus on the hillside above Agios Ioannis bay

 

Agios Ioannis Bay on Mykonos

Overlooking the bay and Delos Island from the road to Ag. Ioannis

 

a blue domed church at Agios Ioannis Mykonos

A blue-domed church on the hillside above Agios Ioannis Bay

 

sign along the road to Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos

Vegetation obscures most of this sign next to the road above the beach …

  Shirley Valentine sign above Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

… but a closer look confirms we’ve nearly reached “the Shirley Valentine beach”

  

sign for Ag Ioannis beach on Mykonos

A sign on the roadside points the way to the beach and Hippie Fish …

  

Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

… which are at the bottom of the road that forks to the left

  

Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

The beach road has views of Delos island and the turquoise waters in the bay

  

Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

The road ends at a parking lot right next to the beach

  road to Ag Ioannis beach on Mykonos

A look back up the long road that leads down the hillside

  the long road down the hill to Ag Ioannis beach on Mykonos

There’s a tall stone wall on one side of the road, and hotels on the other …

  

Manoulas Beach Hotel at Ag Ioannis beach on Mykonos

… including Manoulas Beach Hotel, the resort where some of the scenes from “Shirley Valentine” were filmed

  

Manoulas Beach Hotel at Ag Ioannis beach on Mykonos

One of the buildings at Manoulas Beach Hotel

  

Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos

The parking lot next to Agios Ioannis beach

  Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos

Beach umbrellas, turquoise water, and views of Delos island

  Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos

Umbrellas casting shadows on the sandy beach

  Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos

Looking to the right from the beach entrance beside the parking area

  

Christos taverna at Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

The entrance to Christo’s taverna, which overlooks the beach. {Editor’s note: Since this visit, Christo’s has closed and Pili Restaurant has occupied the location.]

  Waves washing ashore at Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

Waves washing ashore;  Ag. Ioannis is a mix of soft sand and pebbles

  

Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

Looking towards Delos island from a sandy section of the beach

  

Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

Waves sparkle under the bright afternoon sun

  

Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

Two red-domed churches and a fishing boat at the far right end of the bay

  

Two churches at  Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos

A closer view of the two churches next to the bay

  

Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

Looking to the left from the beach entrance near the parking lot

 

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Hippie Fish taverna at Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos

Lounge chairs and umbrellas in front of Hippie Fish restaurant

  

Hippie Fish restaurant and bar at Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

“Shirley Valentine” sign at the Hippie Fish entrance

 

Hippie Fish taverna at Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

Lounge chairs and umbrellas on the beach below Hippie Fish

  

Hippie Fish restaurant and bar at Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos

Part of the view from our table on the Hippie Fish terrace

  Agios Ioannis beach on Mykonos

Hippie Fish offers food & beverage service  on the beach

  

Hippie Fish bar + taverna at Ag Ioannis beach Mykonos

A group sitting area on the shaded beachview terrace at Hippie Fish; that’s the top-rated Mykonos Grand luxury hotel on the hillside in the background

    

Hippie Fish Mykonos

A stretch of soft sand  below the Hippie Fish terrace

  

Hippie Fish Mykonos

Another view of the open-air terrace (the restaurant has an indoor section, too)

  

Donny B at Agios Ioannis beach Mykonos

Taking one last look at Agios Ioannis beach before catching the bus to town

 

hotel at Agios Ioannis Mykonos

The bus to Mykonos Town stops across the road from Panthea Residence (above), which offers studio accommodations overlooking Ag. Ioannis Bay

 

Ag Ioannis Mykonos bus stop

Bus service times are posted on a stone wall along the main road at the top of the hill above Ag. Ioannis beach. In mid-May, there were seven return buses per day.

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